Sườn Nướng: Grilled pork ribs

For those who prefer pork (though it would be grossly negligent to leave Hanoi without trying the grilled chicken), there is more savory delights in the form of grilled (or fried) baby pork ribs. These are salty, greasy, finger licking little morsels smothered with bits of garlic and lemongrass. Not for the feint of heart, they are the perfect beer snack.

Where to find it?
Bít tết 20 Hàng Gíầy is located on the northwest corner of Hàng Buồm and Hàng Giầy (a street that does an elbow hook just below the intersection), due north of Hoàn Kiếm Lake.  This sidewalk-only place opens in the evening around 5pm.  There is a very huge stretch of tables and stools so if you are at the corner you can't miss it.  Order sườn nướng or sườn rán, the fried ribs as a beer snack. Pass on everything else on the menu. 

For a slightly heftier and healthier rendition of sườn nướng, and calmer environs, try Quán Rượu - Trường Xuân Tửu, a somewhat atmospheric local watering hole, offering up more substantial pork ribs which are meatier, drier and crispier. These are very different than what you get on the street, but equally satisfying. Like the grilled chicken, best dip your ribs in muối chanh, a lively chili, lime and salt mixture. Coordinates: 112 Giảng Võ street, just above intersection with Cát Linh, across from the side gate of Horison Hotel. Check your shoes on the ground floor and mount steep stairs up to the third floor, where you can grab a floor cushion (or two) at the top of the stairs and find a spot at one of the low wooden tables. Beer for four, 2 plates of large sườn nướng, sautéed veggies and fried tofu set us back 200,000 dong.

Chiến Béo (no. 192 Nghi Tam) — For a slight variation on the theme, Chiến Béo, on the dike road above West Lake, is famous for all things fried, and does an excellent bone in pork chop.