CAFÉ CULTURE Print E-mail

"Secret" CafeOne the great pleasures of Hanoi is exploring and enjoying the hundreds of cafes and coffee houses in all parts of the city. You are never far from a café den (black coffee), café sua da (iced coffee with condensed milk), a tangy nuoc chanh da (lime juice with ice) or chanh leo (passion fruit juice). Some of the most interesting are the classic coffee shops that seem to have changed little from long ago when information was shared over cups of coffee beneath the shade of hundred year old trees. Below are some recommended areas of town to explore, and some specific cafés worth a visit. 

The streets of Trieu Viet Vuong and Ly Thuong Kiet (details below) both have long stretches lined with local sidewalk cafes, with coffee drinkers lingering under the trees, similar to old days on Hang Hanh.

On Ly Thuong Kiet, the sidewalks are deep with less foot and street traffic, and  you will find locals sipping café sua da under trees, relaxed and with little pretense. Try No. 43 Ly Thuong Kiet, Café Chi, No. 39, Tuyet Café, at 39A, Tonkin Coffee, and on the corner at Hang Bai, 37 Ly Thuong Kiet.

Numbers 111-119 Trieu Viet Vuong is a row of packed cafes, but really on the whole block between Tue Tinh street and To Hien Thanh street, the east side of street is lined with small local spots.

68 Quan Su, Café Anh, between Tran Hung Dao and Hai Ba Trung.

195 Hang Bong, Phở Cu Sua Café, where Phung Hung hits Hang Bong, near intersection with (Dien Bien Phu/Nguyen Thai Hoc), enter through motorbike parking into long narrow courtyard outdoor with trees and birds.

The Secret Café: Café Phố Cổ, 11 Hàng Gài, close to Hoàn Kiếm Lake. The entrance is through the Feeling Gallery (yes, it's a bit strange, but push on through to the back) and up a few flights of narrow catwalk stairs, then up a spiral staircase to small platform overlooking Hoàn Kiếm Lake.

Highlands Coffee Highlights

For a more upscale experience, try one of the Highlands Coffees shops. Although you’ll see a number of Highlands Coffee spots strategically referenced as rest stops in our itineraries and walking routes, not every Highlands Coffee is the same. Many are crowded, smoky and have Vietnamese pop music blaring.

However, four in particular offer great opportunities to relax and/or catch a view:  One is on a pontoon overlooking West Lake (Ho Tay), about halfway up between Trúc Bạch and West Lake on Duong Thanh Nien. If it is cool enough, head up the spiral staircase and sit on the roof to watch the fishermen and swan boats go by. 

The Army/Revolution Museum on Điện Biên Phủ also has a Highlands Coffee just inside the gate and nestled among the trees. This is a good spot to rest your feet if you are on your way on foot between Ho Chi Minh’s Mausoleum and the Temple of Literature, of if you are visiting the museum itself. If you are not visiting the museum, be sure to enter at the café entrance (a smaller entrance about 10 yards north of the main gate) and not at the main museum gate.

Another one of our favorite Highlands spot is in the corner of the Hanoi Towers (Thap Hanoi). There is both indoor and outdoor seating, but few people choose the outdoor patio located next to the parking lot and on a busy intersection. Head inside and enjoy the industrial chic design, comfortable sofas and down tempo lounge music. There are even two free internet stations available for customer use.

The latest star in the Highlands Coffee empire is on the shaded grounds of the National Opera House (Nha Hat Lon).