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 While it’s true that Bangkok is a huge city with too many cars and serious traffic problems, it is not nearly as bad as it is often made out to be. Having worked and lived in Bangkok for over two years, I found that with recent improvements (the new subway), the Sky Train and a few tips, you can get around quite easily.
Sky Train: The biggest change in the city’s transport started with the introduction of the Sky Train, or the BTS (Bangkok Transport System), in 1999. It is fair to say it has revolutionized travel around parts of the city. While it does not go everywhere (apparently the King does not want it in the old part of the city) and has ruined the pavement level views on some streets, traveling in it is generally very enjoyable, easy, and inexpensive. It primarily serves the hotel, restaurant and shopping meccas of Sukumvit and Silom roads. Here is a good guide to the Sky Train. And here is the official guide.
Subway: More recently, in 2004, the underground subway, or MRT, was opened, which connects in two places with the Sky Train (though not very conveniently) and has added new options - both parts of the city that are less traveled by tourists, and some useful places like the main train station, Lumphini Park and Suan Luam Night Market.
 Boats/River Taxis: Another enjoyable aspect of travel in Bangkok is the river taxis. They travel along some of the canals, and along the Chao Praya river. The are very cheap, only crowded at rush hours, and a great way to see the city and mingle with local Thais.
Taxis are still a good value. They start out at 35 baht, just over a dollar, and do not increase very quickly, especially if you are in traffic. Of course, this is one reason the drivers often try to avoid using the meter. I was told by a taxi driver that the city has not allowed them to raise their rates for 14 years, and it is surprising that rates have not changed in years, especially with the recent increases in fuel prices of all kinds.
A few basic rules will
help you avoid problems. First, insist on using the meter – though in
some cases (heavy rainstorms) this may be difficult as the drivers know
they are going to have to sit in traffic and they don’t make much while
doing so - OR agree on a set price before getting in. Sometimes it's worth asking the hotel concierge before you leave what the normal fare to your destination is, and then, even if you have to negotiate with the driver, you'll know what a reasonable price to pay is. For example, normally it is about 200 baht (when using the meter) from around Soi 15 on Sukhumvit to the international airport, plus 25 to 60 baht for the highway tolls. The taxi drivers will normally start by demanding 400 baht, then 300 and I would say 250 is reasonable. (Don't begrude them a dollar or two considering that many work 12 shifts and don't earn much. On the other hand, don't agree to their first price either.)
Second, make sure they understand/know your destination before you
take off. And if they take you down small alleys or seem to be going
in the wrong direction, it probably does not mean you being ripped off
or about to be mugged. They know the back streets that allow them to
avoid some of the most congested main roads.
Fortunately, many if not most of the city's taxis run on natural gas, so the city air quality has significantly improved in recent years.
Tuk Tuks: These iconic contraptions of Bangkok are much nosier, dirtier and generally not cheaper than taxis, and you are not protected from heat or noise. On the other hand, sometimes they can go down smaller side streets, or turn around more easily then taxi, so sometimes it makes sense. But with tuk tuks you must negotiate pretty hard to get a decent rate, so only use them if you have a good sense of what the price in a taxi would be.
Buses: Buses are cheap, plentiful and can be a good way to get around town, with a few caveats. First, you have to figure out the system, which is hella confusing. Here is a good website that provides a lot of details and routes, and here is the official city bus site . As for the cost, this may have changed recently, but the Green Bus fare is 3.50 baht a ride, the Blue
- Red Bus fare is 3.5 baht and 5 baht. Airconditioned bus fares are
between 8 - 16 baht. Avoid the small green buses which can be overcrowded and dangerous.
Rental cars: You can rent a car in Bangkok fairly easily, but I would not recommend it if you are staying in the city. If you plan to travel to other provinces/cities in Thailand, then it becomes a good option. You can also hire a driver if required.
Motorcycle taxis: A mode of transport used quite often by Thais is motorcycle taxis. But this is normally only for short trips (a few blocks) and generally is confined to side streets. The fares are generally set, so usually you don't need to bargain, but still best to ask before you go (and if it's seem high, you can try negotiating).
Walking: This is the best way to get a feel for the city. In spite of the heat, walking is still my preferred method for exploring, particularly in Chinatown, lower Silom, and the side streets off Sukhumvit. The pavements can be dangerous, the smells overwhelming, and the heat oppressive...but you also get to see daily life in a way you'll never experience from a taxi or bus.
For more information, here are links to a few more detailed guides to travel in Bangkok:
Lonely Planet guide
http://www.bangkok.com/information-travel-around/index.html
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