| 48 HOURS IN BEIJING: HIGHLIGHTS |
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ARRIVAL
Beijing Capital International Airport now consists of three terminals, with the recently completed Terminal C conjuring a dragon ready to soar, perhaps self-consciously evoking China readying for the Olympics. To get into the city the most convenient way is to take a taxi from the official taxi stands which are located along the island outside of Arrivals. Do not accept a ride from anyone intercepting you in the lobby or at the curb; chances are you’ll end up paying far more. The taxis are metered and you will need to add the 10 RMB Airport Expressway toll to the fare. The total fare, including toll, is approximately 80-100 RMB to the East Third Ring Road. Make sure you have your destination written out in Chinese. Check our Travel Resources for other airport transfer options.
ITINERARY AT A GLANCE
Day 1—Morning: Panjiayuan > Temple of Heaven > Lunch > Afternoon: [Planning and Exhibition Hall> Forbidden City > Jingshan] > (Show) > Dinner > Foot massage Day 2—Morning: Drive to Great Wall at Mutianyu or Juyongguan > Lunch> Drive back to Beijing > Late afternoon: Hutongs OR Art Galleries OR Noodles > Dinner > Drinks
Day One in Beijing
Wake up in Beijing: Stay in a boutique hotel nestled deep in a hutong neighborhood. In the early mornings, soak in the rhythm of Old Beijing. Ask your hotel staff where you can graze on some local Beijing breakfast snacks.
MORNING CULTURAL INTRODUCTION
Pan jia yuan market 潘家园舊貨市場 (or simply 潘家园)
Going to Panjiayuan Market, sometimes called the Dirt Market or Antique Flea Market, is a bit like going to the circus. Don’t view this as a shopping trip, but as a cultural experience. While this market is now mostly covered and is encircled with permanent shops on all sides, it has yet to be transformed into a mall, as Silk Alley has, and retains much of its old bustle, excitement and fanfare. Genuine antique treasures from the countryside are a thing of the past, but you can still find countless items to treasure and the prices are cheaper and more susceptible to vigorous bargaining than at Yashow or Hongqiao Markets. The shops around the perimeter are now open all week, but the stalls area is only active on the weekends. Vendors set up shop at dawn, so early morning is the best time both to avoid the teeming masses and to strike the best deal. Temple of Heaven/Tiantan 天坛
The people watching in the gardens alone are worth the trip. You will observe activities in their endless variety and engagement, such as musicians playing and singing together, an erhu’s haunting melody, chess played by old men with their birds hanging in their cages in the trees behind, tai chi, fan dancing, sword practice, and my all time favorite, water calligraphy being practiced on the paving stones. The main structures are also impressive, reflecting their importance as the reigning emperor’s direct line to the Heavens, where he made his seasonal appeals for good weather, bountiful harvests and other such signs that he retained his heavenly Mandate to rule over China.
LUNCH CHOICES
Lei Garden—For those of you who aren’t from a city blessed with authentic Cantonese dim sum, Lei Garden offers a great opportunity to be introduced to a high quality selection of these beautiful and delicious little tea snacks. Qin Tang Fu—The food at QinTang Fu is a more humble variety then Lei Garden, anchored in hearty basics such as the stewed pork sandwich and thick hand pulled vinegary, spicy noodles. QTF also offers a unique opportunity to sample Shaanxi cuisine, which is rarely found outside of China.
Hua Jia Yi Yuan—This is a bit further out of your way but less so if you decide to approach the imperial axis from the north at Jingshan. Hua Jia Yi Yuan offers the chance to enjoy high quality, inventive and moderately priced jia chang cai in an airy courtyard setting.
AFTERNOON ON THE IMPERIAL AXIS
Tiananmen Square to Jing Shan Park (or the reverse)
Two bird’s eye views of Beijing The Beijing Planning and Exhibition Hall and Jing Shan Park book end the old imperial axis. Both offer a valuable perspective on Beijing and make great start or endpoints for exploring the Forbidden City. We advise making the Planning and Exhibition Hall a priority, and adding the hike up Jingshan if you are lucky enough to have a clear day, and have the time. Beijing Master Plan approach—Entering the Forbidden City fromthe south via Tiananmen Square and through the Gate of Heavenly Peace is the usual way for good reason, giving you the full effect of imperial grandeur. Start across the streetfrom Qianmen at the Beijing Planning and Exhibition Hall. Orient yourself to this sprawling metropolis by walking around and on top of an enormous, to scale model of the city which includes details down to the latest work-in-progress architectural spectacles. There is also a model of the Forbidden City, as well as special exhibits showing the historical development of Beijing and the city’s newest Olympic venues. Jing Shan/Coal Hill approach—While the Forbidden City istraditionally approached from the south through Tiananmen, or the Gate of Heavenly Peace, you can also start from the north end, where in milder weather you can enjoy the grand view from the top of Jing Shan down Beijing’s vermillion and golden imperial axis. Hike up from the East or West gate and down to the South gate to enter the Forbidden City at its north gate, or Shuwenmen (Gate of Divine Might). Entering from this direction first thing in the morning, you will also get the imperial gardens and grounds to yourself until you meet the crowds approaching the conventional way. This is a particularly nice alternative on weekend mornings when the volume of tourists entering through Tiananmen and the Meridian Gate is at its peak.
A straight walk from Qianmen up through Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City from the Meridian Gate (Wumen) to Shuwumen (Gate of Divine Might) at the base of Jing Shan is over 2 kilometers. Although this distance is not great, the Forbidden City also has numerous side galleries, palaces and courtyards to explore and gates to climb, so plan your time and stamina accordingly.
Snack stops: Thankfully, there are a growing number of concessions appearing on either side of the main central courtyards/axis ofthe Forbidden City. If you entered the Forbidden City through the north gate, you can also exit via the East Gate (just inside the Meridian Gate), where you will find numerous small eateries along the wall to your left and right on Nanchizi Road. Acrobatics, kung fu or Peking opera show option: Although most Chinese acrobat and kung fu performances these days are heavily choreographed, showy extravaganzas, it can still be an eye-opening and jaw-dropping cultural experience. Each feat outdoes the last, challenging the rules of gravity and physics. With dramatic make-up, costumes and piercing music and singing, a traditional Peking Opera performance offers a third unique, and some might say ear-splitting, cultural evening. Forgo the expensive and touristy full service dinner opera shows and opt for at most opera and tea, or better yet, visit one of the traditional theaters, such as the Beijing Chang An Grand Theatre, frequented by locals. Show times for most tourist performances are generally 5/5:15PM and again at 7/7:15PM, with performances lasting about an hour.
DINNER—A PEKING DUCK FEAST Dadong Duck—Choose Dadong Roast Duck Restaurant if want the meal centered around the duck and its accompanying duck parts, and if you don’t mind paying a premium for fancier presentation. The new Nanxincang Dadong location is a much nicer venue.
Xiang Man Lou—Feast at Xiang Man Lou if you want equally excellent duck served with less fanfare and for half the cost; here, the kitchen also serves up a wider array of delicious jia chang favorites to accompany the duck.
DRINKS
Beijing is a big city with night life to match. From hutong haunts (Bed Bar) to chic Chinoise (Face Bar) and seedy decadence (Suzie Wong’s), you can find just the place to suit your pleasure.
Day 2 in Beijing
MORNING AT THE GREAT WALL 长城
Seeing the Great Wall snake up and down jagged mountain ridges as far as the eye can see never fails to capture my imagination and overwhelm me with both its scale and by the sheer hubris and force of will (or forced labor) needed to envision and build it. Do not fail to go. Ju yong guan 居庸關: Located about an hour’s drive from Beijing, Juyongguan is the closest section of the wall worth a visit. Opened to tourists in 1998, this stop on the Wall is not in most guidebooks, so it is far less crowded and commercial than Badaling. Yet, because of its location guarding a mountain pass and gateway to Beijing, the Juyongguan section has some dramatic fortress features and was an important military position since the earliest Qin Dynasty. Note that this also makes it a very steep climb. Luckily, there is a tea house in one of the watch towers. Touristy? Yes. A welcome treat, once you’ve climbed the Wall? Absolutely. Olympic Green detour: If you visit the Juyongguan Great Wall, you can drive past the Olympic Park area and catch a glimpse of the Bird’s Nest and Water Cube. It will require your driver to take a slight detour along the 4th Ring Road, rather than get on/off the Badaling Expressway closer into the city, but it will be well worth it.
Mu tian yu 慕田峪: A bit further a field and know for its solitude is Mutianyu. Of course, having been known for its solitude for a bit too long and a mere 30 minutes further out than Badaling (about a 90 minute drive from Beijing), the crowds have also begun to engulf this section of the Wall. Still, once you get beyond the commercial gauntlet leading up to the entrance, you leave most ofthe insanity behind; hike a few watch towers away from the top of the cable car and the Wall takes over your senses. The hike up onto the wall takes about 30 minutes, but you can take the cable car if you want to save time or your knees; the alpine slide down also buys you additional time on the wall and is a total blast.
LUNCH CHOICES
Din Tai Fung (following Juyonguan Great Wall)—Back in Beijing, a Din Tai Fung dumpling feast is the perfect way to refuel after a hike up the Great Wall. Their standard pork xiao long bao are the best around and the supporting dishes, part Shanghai and part Taiwanese style, show a lighter, subtler hand than most offerings in Beijing. Xiaolumian (following Mutianyu Great Wall)—This cozy little noodle (re)treat is part of The Schoolhouse family. Set in a restored country house with a lovely garden terrace (and one of Mutianyu’s few first world toilets), the kitchen here makes toothy hand pulled noodles accompanied by a variety of fresh, flavorful sauces.
Xiaolumian has seasonal hours and is sometimes only minimally supplied, so call ahead to confirm that you are coming and how to get there—it is nearby but not easy to find, so the best way is to stop at The Schoolhouse, located at the base of Mutianyu village just below the main parking area, to get directions.
LATE AFTERNOON EXPLORATION (CHOOSE ONE)
With an 8am departure to Mutianyu and limiting your time on the Wall to about 2 hours, you should be able to have lunch and comfortably arrive back in Beijing by 3pm. An earlier departure will buy you more time to linger longer at the Wall, take a more leisurely ramble through the hutongs, or even pack in more than one of the following activities.
A: The Hutongs, OR
B: Chinese Contemporary Art, OR
C: The Art of Noodle Making
A—Wander the hutongs 胡同
The places that most evoke a sense of place in Beijing—a feeling of community and of a way of life that has in many ways survived unbroken through the ruptures in China’s modern history—are Beijing’s disappearing hutongs. The hutongs that do remain have now been targeted by the government for redevelopment as tourist centers and the transformation is happening fast. However, an afternoon on foot or on a bicycle spent weaving through these alleys and observing daily life up close still offers a special glimpse of old Beijing. Note: You may opt for a hutong tour by rickshaw/pedicab; however these can be expensive (bargain hard) and you will likely be taken on a crowded circuit and worse yet, rushed through it. Lama Temple,Nanluoguxiang and the Drum/Bell Towers described below are some anchor points along the way as you explore the hutongs stretching around them.
Lama Temple 雍和宫
Nan luo gu xiang 南锣鼓巷 (NLGX)
Drum and Bell Towers 鼓楼,钟楼 Snack and rest stops: The hutong neighborhoods encompassing NLGX and the Drum and Bell Towers are the best in the city for sipping and grazing your way through the day. If you are traveling from Lama Temple to NLGX, get off a little early at Zarah Café and have a delicious pint-sized latte in a arty café that would not be out of place in San Francisco. To satisfy your sweet tooth, wander on intoNLGX and enjoy a fresh, silky cheese custard (similar to panna cotta) at the age old cheese custard shop at #49—it is usually easy to spot because of the line out the door. Need something more substantial? Grab a chuan’r (that’s meat on a stick, usually lamb) or two from #27 or one of the many tiny street front grills that set up in the evenings (in good weather) or stroll down to #84 for a quick steamer basket of Hangzhou dumplings, or to the window stall at the south end of the alley for a griddle-fried pork and leek hot pocket. Have a hankering for some numbingly hot grilled chicken wings? Make a slight detour to the east end of Chaodou hutong to the cool little Hot Bean Cooperative (open evenings only; tel. 8401 6165; look for the little astronaut stencil marking the door—enjoy your wings on the rooftop terrace). If your legs are feeling the climb up to the Great Wall, do not despair, as NLGX has a café about every ten steps that can offer a welcome rest stop (and there is always time for another foot massage later tonight).
If you are past NLGX and on your way to the Drum Tower when your stomach starts calling to you, enjoy a neat stack of guo tie (traditional northern fried dumplings) at #259 Goulou Street. Or just watch the world go by at the big picture window of Café Excuse, tucked in the shadow of the Drum Tower. On a balmy afternoon or early evening, climb up to the rooftop terrace of the Drum and Bell for a leafy perch directly between the two time-keeping towers (located on the west side of Zhonglouwan Hutong, no. 41, tel: 6593 5050).
B: Explore the 798/Dashanzi Art District (七九八/大山子 艺术区)
Come see what’s lighting the market for Chinese contemporary art on fire, with prices for pieces by well known artists easily into the tens of thousands and soaring ever higher (that’s USD, not RMB). Dazhanzi’s earliest roots as an art center began in 2003 when an artist rented space in the abandoned No. 798 Factory for his studio; its immediate popularity and growth as an artists’ haven prevented the area from being chai’ed (torn down) in Beijing’s recently redevelopment plans. Stepping into a few key galleries at the 798 Art District can give you a quick education of the main styles and themes driving the contemporary art scene, so you can see how far Chinese art has evolved from its roots in calligraphied mountains and mist and how it has broken free from the confines of Socialist Realism.
Snack and rest stops: There are constant changes and developments in the798 district, and most welcome are the growing number of small cafes, as the galleries are spread out over a very large area, so these offer a welcome haven to rest and refuel. The small coffee shop within Amelie Gallery is a nice spot in the northwest quadrant of 798, the 798 Old Factory Café and At Café are perfect for when you’ve wandered your way through to the far end of the main Factory 798 Space.
C: Try your hand at making delicious noodles
Watching a Chinese noodle master at work, you might well be watching a magician. A flick of the wrist, a slight of hand, and the dough flies, yields and is transformed. Learn some trade secrets at Noodle Loft, a specialist in Shanxi noodles, and pinch, pull and slice your way to some easy favorites.
Details: Note that this is currently an informal activity at the restaurant and you will need to make arrangements through the restaurant manager. There is little English spoken by any of the staff, so you will get the most enjoyment and learning out of this class if you have at least one Chinese speaker among you. Classes are 100 RMB per person and can be scheduled in the late afternoons between 2:30 and 5pm, from Monday through Thursday. Sessions last about 90 minutes to 2 hours. Call Ms. Qiao at (+86) 138 1121 1848.
Shopping Suggestions If that extra suitcase you brought with you is calling to be filled, follow our brief road map for some creative shopping ideas. These can easily complement your itinerary and will take you beyond the usual mass-market haunts of Hong Qiao, Yashow Market and Xiu Shui/Silk Alley.
Relax and enjoy a massage before dinner
A traditional Chinese massage—either foot or full body—is a great way to recover from a day on your feet and any lingering jet lag. Bodhi and Oriental Taipan are two reputable chains. They are not western style “spas”, per se, but do offer inexpensive yet reliable services in a clean and pleasant environment, and have service menus printed in English and often some English trained staff. Oh, and they serve free snacks too!
If you are in 798, stop off at the Lido area Oriental Taipan, which will give you an excuse to wander into Spin Ceramics. If you’ve chosen either Yu Xin or Yue Lu Shan Wu for dinner, these are both in walking distance of the Bodhi at Workers Stadium. Headed to Chuan Ban? It’s a straight shot west from Oriental Taipan on Ritan Lu.
DINNER CHOICES—HOT AND SPICY
Beijingers have embraced Sichuan food and adopted it as their own. And Beijing does Sichuan well, so after a Peking duck feast, sampling some spicy Sichuan should be your next priority. Hunan food is a close cousin to Sichuan and the homestyle food of Chairman Mao, so it is also very popular in the capital. Hunan cooking also offers a reprieve from the numbing aspect of Sichuan spice, but with no less love of fiery chilies or fatty pork. Yu Xin or Chuan Ban—The quality and consistency of the Sichuan food at Yu Xin makes it a reasonable first choice. Chuan Ban can give a truly Chinese experience in all its provincial government, raucous, smoky, cafeteria style glory.
Yue Lu Shan Wu—Slightly modernized Hunan classics shine at Yue Lu Shan Wu. The subdued dining room is adorned with eye-catching splashes of Chinese contemporary art by the owner.
DEPARTURE
A regular taxi is the most convenient way to get back to the airport. The ride is metered and you will need to pay the Airport Expressway toll of 10 RMB, so the fare should be similar to what you paid traveling into the city. With the new Terminal 3 opening at Beijing Capital International Airport which is set further apart from Terminal 1 and 2, make sure you check from which Terminal your flight is scheduled to depart. There will be shuttle buses between terminals, but who needs the unwanted delays. |