OUR YUNNAN/GUIZHOU/DAI RECOMMENDATIONS Print E-mail
 

大贵 -Da Gui (Guizhou)Da Gui sign
 
Original Jiao dao kou location: 
交道口大兴胡同69号
Jiao dao kou da xing hu tong 69 hao
Jiaodaokou, Da Xing Hutong, no. 69
Dong Cheng District, near the Drum Tower area
Tel: 010-6407 1800
$: Dinner for eight, 536rmb


Directions: It is a small restaurant in a relatively small hutong.  They will give you Andingmen Neidajie and Pingan Dajie as street references to find the hutong, but these are the old names of the streets.  To find the hutong on a current street map, look for Jiao dao kou Nandaji—Da xing hutong is about half way between Jiao dao kou Dongdajie or Di’anmen Dongdajie.  Head east down the hutong, keep an eye out on your left as the sign is quite unassuming. 

Dagui spread

 
What we think

This little Guizhou find stayed under the radar screen during the hubbub about Three Guizhou Men, an upscale eatery opened by three Guizhou artists.  Tucked away in a small hutong space in Jiao dao kou neighborhood, it offers a simple spot to enjoy some typical Guizhou treats, as well as some innovative twists created in their kitchen.  In a playful nod to their environs, they even fashioned a cake (蜂窝煤蛋糕 feng wo mei dan gao) in the form of the honeycomb shaped charcoal traditionally used for cooking and heating in the hutongs. 
 
 
New Dongzhimen wai/Xin Yuan Li location:
new Da Gui 新源西里东街6号(渔阳饭店对面)
Xinyuanxili Dongjie 6 hao (Yu Yang Fan Dian dui mian)
Chaoyang District, off of Xin Dong Lu opposite the Yuyang Hotel
Tel: 010-8448 4600
$: Feast for 9, 674 RMB
 
What we think
 
Same menu, same prices, same delicious Guizhou cooking, with a bright new modern setting and in a more accessible location.  The fragrant and 'beautifying' sour fish soup is perfectly balanced with tartness and spiciness; the fried glutinous rice balls, jue cai (wild fern) and la rou (local bacon) dishes are as good as ever. 
 

Recommended dishes (see our Yunnan/Guizhou regional food guide for photos)

炒汤圆  chao tang yuan: Da Gui has also transformed the tang yuan from a dessert of boiled soft glutinous rice balls stuffed with sesame paste served in hot syrup into a savory sweet dish, still stuffed with gooey sesame paste, but fried lightly until crispy and coated with savory herbs and spice
酸汤鱼  suan tang yu: rich, tart and spicy sour fish soup
蜂窝煤蛋糕  feng wo mei dan gao: honeycomb charcoal cake

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大理 - DaLi  (Yunnan)

Dali courtyard 东城区鼓楼东大街小经厂胡同67号
Gulou Dongdajie, Xiajingchang hutong, number 67
Hours: 10am-9.30 pm
Tel: 010-8404 1430
$: Set menu starts at 100rmb/person, not including drinks
WiFi wireless internet access

Directions:  Dali is tucked off of an alley off of a small hutong.  Xiao jing chang hutong runs north off of Gulou Dongdajie, just west of the Jiaodaokou/Andingmen intersection.  Walk into the hutong and turn left into the very first small alley on your left (there is a red lantern hanging there, but it is hard to see except at night).  Dali’s entrance is through the wooden doors on your left about 10 yards into the alley.

What we think 

Dali is yet another courtyard restaurant, but one that does not aim to recreate the ornamentalDali corner nook setting of a court official residence. Instead, it is humble and homey, with exposed wood beams, a shingled rooftop and lots of potted plants. The courtyard environment is lovely in the evenings and is tented during the winter (though still quite cold). You are of course paying for this enjoyable setting, as dinner is a set meal starting at 100rmb per head. The menu doesn’t change enough to enjoy frequent repeat visits, but it is a good choice for enjoying a tasty meal in a unique setting and also a great hit with visitors. 

Note:  Based on our last few visits through the spring/early summer of 2008, Dali seems to have landed on the tour bus and company dinner circuit.  It has been overcrowded and noisy, losing it's former tranquility.  You might try eating early (start before 6pm) or late (start at 9pm) to avoid the dinner crush.  Stay tuned.

Dali spread

 
Recommended dishes

Dali serves a set menu only. Items change slightly each night but include a wide range of dishes usually including: a grilled fish, a spicy mushroom dish, Yunnan sausages, sometimes Yunnan cheese, a spicy meat dish (chicken or yak), wild mountain vegetables, shrimp, spicy and sour noodles or rice to finish. Most of it is good and there is an occasional standout. 

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Middle 8 entranceMiddle 8
中八楼 - Zhong Ba Lou (Yunnan)
 
东三里屯中8号楼
Dong Sanlitun Zhong 8 hao lou
Sanlitun, near 3.3 and Pacific Century Place
Tel:  010-6413-0629
$:  Lunch for 2 (four dishes, no drinks), 79rmb


Directions:  Enter from Sanlitun Bar Street (Sanlitun jiu ba jie), heading east into a small alley across from the 3.3 mall; at the next small intersection, the restaurant will be on your left on the northwest corner.  OR, you may enter from Gongti Beilu.  Head north into the alley just west of the pedestrian traffic light in front of Pacific Century Mall; at the next intersection, the restaurant will be in front of you on the left, on the northwest corner.

What we think 

Middle 8 serves up more typical Yunnan cooking, offering a lot of mushrooms, wild herbs/vegetables, and dishes with a lighter, tarter touch.  This place is often jammed in the evenings, and getting a table can be impossible.  If you get stuck, never fear – you are not too far from Zhu Lin! (See jia chang cai)

Middle 8 spreadRecommended dishes (see our Yunnan/Guizhou regional food guide for photos of these dishes)

玉鬼鸡  yu gui ji: fresh and bright salad of chicken, lemon pieces, chili and greens
布依野菜  bu yi ye cai: light salad of various Yunnan edible wild herbs
头人蟹味菇  tou ren xie wei gu: this spicy mushroom and octopus sauté is a nice combination of flavors and textures (not sure why the name says xie/crab, maybe a translation mistake)
凉拌棠梨花  jing ban tang li hua: delicious, textured, birchleaf pear tree flower, sautéed with garlic; this seasonal vegetable is also found in northern Vietnam which borders Yunnan
瓦罐牛肉米线  wa guan niu rou mi xian:  spicy sour vermicelli in claypot with beef

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Golden Peacock Dai Restaurant (Dai Minority)
 金孔雀傣家风味餐厅 - Jing Kong Que De Hong Dai Wei Can Guan

Golden Peacock entrance
海淀区魏公村街民族大学北路16号楼一层
Hai dian qu wei gong cun jie, Mingzu Daxue Beilu
16 Minzu Daxue Beilu, Weigongcun lane, Haidian District
Tel: 010-6893 2030
$: Cheap. Dinner for four, 115rmb

Directions:  Golden Peacock is located inside the northwest corner of the Third Ring Road. Wei Gong Cun Jie is a small lane running west off of Zhongguancun Nandajie, between the Polytechnic University (Beijing Li Gong Da Xue) and the Central College of Nationalities (Minzu Daxue).

What we think 

Golden Peacock interior

 
This place is the perfect choice if you have spent the day wandering one of the summer palaces (Yi he yuan or Yuan ming yuan) or visiting one of the university campuses. But it’s good enough that it is worth a trip out just for the food. The Dai minority food shares similar ingredients and flavors of the Yunnan and Guizhou region, where many of China’s ethnic minority communities are clustered.  The jue cai (wild vegetables), pineapple rice, black chicken and fried potato balls are tasty, as are the fragrant fried banana fritters. Be prepared to wait for a table, but the brisk and efficient service means tables turn quickly.


Golden Peacock spreadRecommended dishes

 菠萝饭  bo luo fan:  fragrant sticky rice cooked in a pineapple
蕨菜  jue cai: mountain vegetable with various preparations
乌骨鸡  wu gu ji: shredded black chicken
土豆求  tu dou qiu: fried potato balls with spicy dipping sauce
香蕉  xiang jiao: bananas fritters

 

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