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Twenty years ago, eating for pleasure in Beijing was still a politically incorrect bourgeois pleasure; now, the increasingly prosperous middle class in Beijing are eager to spend their renminbi on everything from Argentinian steak and Malbec to Irish stew and Guinness. However, to us, and to the great majority of Chinese people, the only food that matters is Chinese food. And it matters a lot. This is what makes eating in Beijing so much fun - the regional variety here is infinite, with restaurants offering everything that has ever been cooked to eat across China.