Twenty
years ago, eating for pleasure in Beijing was still a
politically incorrect bourgeois pleasure; now, the increasingly
prosperous middle class in Beijing are eager to spend their renminbi on everything
from Argentinian steak and Malbec to Irish stew and Guinness. However,
to us, and to the great majority of Chinese people, the only food that
matters is Chinese food. And it matters a lot.This is what makes eating in Beijing so much fun - the regional variety here is infinite, with restaurants offering everything that has ever been cooked to eat across China.