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Bánh Cuốn
Phở Cuốn

Bánh Cuốn: Rice flour pancake roll with Banh cuonmushroom and pork 

Yet another member of the extended noodle family, bánh cuốn are paper thin steamed rice flour pancakes, much like delicate sheets of fresh rice noodles. These are plucked off of the linen steamer base, and immediately rolled with minced pork and mushrooms, then piled on a plate, sprinkled with deep fried shallots, snipped with scissors into bite sized sections, and topped with fresh herbs such as cilantro or Vietnamese basil. A plate of bánh cuốn is a light dish traditionally eaten as breakfast in Hanoi but now can also be found as a late night snack.

To eat, dip a section of rolled noodle goodness into the accompanying warm fish sauce broth, brightened with a squeeze of fresh lime. You can also pick the leaves off the herbs and add them to the dipping sauce, grabbing a leaf or two as you dip, or you can follow each bite with a chaser of herbs. Bánh cuốn are often eaten with different sides of pork sausages, including sheets of an orange hued, roasted cinnamon sausage called chả quế.

Where to find it?
A short walk north of Hàng Da Market and Hàng Điếu street will bring you to Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân, just look for the bánh cuốn station—two large covered steaming pots—out front along the sidewalk. Watch as the practiced hands keep the bánh cuốn rolling out with experienced economy of motion, alternating seamlessly between spreading the thin batter on the linen base of one steamer, then in perfect time, turning to the other to peel the delicately steamed pancake off the linen base with a bamboo stick. By the time the batter is spread on its newly emptied linen base, the pancake in the first steamer is ready and waiting. With only 6 tables nestled inside the small open storefront, the pace never slows. Serving 7AM-1PM and 5PM-11PM. Coordinates: No. 14 Hàng Gà street, between Hàng Mã and Hàng Vải (the Hàng Vải corner is lined with bamboo ladders and poles). It is located on the west side of the street, not far from where the street name changes from Hàng Cót to Hàng Gà.

Locals claim that 71 Hàng Bồ dishes up tastier, more thin and tender bánh cuốn than the more famous Bánh Cuốn Thanh Vân, though the dipping sauce is less superior so it may be a wash between the two locations. However, the Hàng Bồ location offers two kinds of stuffing: pork and chicken, and is just a stones throw from Hoàn Kiếm Lake so it is a good stop as you explore the Old Quarter. Open 3PM – 11 PM. Heading up Hàng Điếu Street, turn right onto Bát Đàn and it becomes Hàng Bồ. Continuing west on Hang Bac, the street also becomes Hàng Bồ. No. 71 is on the south side of the street. About 7,000 dong for pork stuffing and 8,000 dong for chicken stuffed bánh cuốn.

The restaurant Quán Ăn Ngon, 18 Phan Bội Châu Street, also does a very respectable version of bánh cuốn.

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Phở Cuốn: rollled sheets of pho with beef and greensPho cuon

A cousin of bánh cuốn, phở cuốn is rolled up sheets of phở noodles. While both bánh cuốn and its accompanying broth are served warm, phở cuốn is a cold dish. The phở wrapper is more substantial and toothy than the steamed bánh cuốn, with a filling of sautéed beef and a mix of fresh lettuce and herbs. Rather than using a broth, phở cuốn are dipped in more of a classic nước mắm chấm—a very mild fish sauce based dipping sauce, with bits of pickled green papaya and carrots for added flavor and crunch. While this dish is less subtle than bánh cuốn, when done right, it is fresh and flavorful and makes a perfect light snack.

Where to find it?
The entire north and north east sides of Trúc Bạch Lake seem to be dedicated to serving up phở cuốn as their feature dish. Grab a seat at any of the tables lining the edge of the lake and you can’t go wrong, but be warned that you will have to run the gauntlet of young touts all trying to divert you into their little territory.

Phu cuon near Truc Bac lake

One decent spot that offers a wide range of food options is Nha Hang Hang Tai. In addition to phở cuốn, try the phở chiên ròn, or small pillows of layered phở noodle sheets, lightly battered and deep fried into thick puffs, served with sautéed beef and vegetables. This place also has a seafood and lẩu, and might be a good alternate to the Tống Duy Tân seafood street if you are in the Trúc Bạch area of want a lake view. Coordinates: In front of no. 75 Trúc Bạch Street, along the north side of the lake.;

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Phở Cuốn: Beef and greens rolled in phở noodle Print E-mail

A cousin of bánh cuốn, phở cuốn is rolled up sheets of phở noodles. While both bánh cuốn and its accompanying broth are served warm, phở cuốn is a cold dish. The phở wrapper is more substantial and toothy than the steamed bánh cuốn, with a filling of sautéed beef and a mix of fresh lettuce and herbs. Rather than using a broth, phở cuốn are dipped in more of a classic nước mắm chấm—a very mild fish sauce based dipping sauce, with bits of pickled green papaya and carrots for added flavor and crunch. While this dish is less subtle than bánh cuốn, when done right, it is fresh and flavorful and makes a perfect light snack.

Where to find it?
The entire north and north east sides of Trúc Bạch Lake seem to be dedicated to serving up phở cuốn as their feature dish. Grab a seat at any of the tables lining the edge of the lake and you can’t go wrong, but be warned that you will have to run the gauntlet of young touts all trying to divert you into their little territory.

One decent spot that offers a wide range of food options is Nha Hang Hang Tai. In addition to phở cuốn, try the phở chiên ròn, or small pillows of layered phở noodle sheets, lightly battered and deep fried into thick puffs, served with sautéed beef and vegetables. This place also has a seafood and lẩu, and might be a good alternate to the Tống Duy Tân seafood street if you are in the Trúc Bạch area of want a lake view. Coordinates: In front of no. 75 Trúc Bạch Street, along the north side of the lake.